FAQ
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Below are some of the most common questions that are asked.
Sometimes it is necessary to mix seed with another medium to help plant small quantities of seed that may be difficult to broadcast or plant using a drill. There are many options for this including rice hulls, cracked corn, cat litter, pelletized lime, or small grain seed. If using small grains, consider spring oats as they will winterkill and are less likely to compete in winter sown seedings.
Yes! We ship orders and primarily use USPS for small orders and for large orders utilize UPS. If your order is large, we encourage pickup due to shipping costs. Shipping is charged on the customer’s invoice.
We accept credit cards (additional 3% fee) or approved check.
We strive to source and grow our seed from Missouri and specifically the Ozarks. However, we do work with a network of growers from surrounding states to provide specific grass varieties and other Midwest ecotype forbs as needed.
Adequate weed control is important to give new seedlings every chance to establish. Starting with a weed free planting area is ideal.
In established stands weed control may be necessary if invasive species such as sericea lespedeza or multiflora rose begin to encroach. Most plantings will be relatively weed free after establishment.
Conducting controlled burns can help keep some weed and brush species at bay.
When storing seed it is important to keep seeds cool and dry. Seed can last many years if stored properly. Seed may be stored at room temperature for many months, but germination rates will be reduced if seed is allowed to heat up. Avoid storing seed in barns and other un-cooled buildings in summer if possible. For smaller quantities of seed or for long term storage consider freezing your seed.
Most wildflowers will begin to bloom in the second and third growing season. Some species may take longer to bloom and some annual wildflowers will bloom the first season.
We try to provide a few annual and biennial species in our seed mixes to provide blooms for you and pollinators in the first few years.
There are many wildflowers that will grow in partial and even full shade. Some common species that can tolerate some shade include blue violet, bloodroot, alumroot and others.
Native warm season grasses have higher growing points than many cool season species like tall fescue. Because of this you must graze native warm season grasses higher. A good rule of thumb is to stop grazing when there is eight (8) inches of stubble height. This leaves the growing point intact and leaves enough leaves to begin rapid regrowth.
Grazing can begin when stands are well established. This usually occurs in the second growing season after planting. We strongly recommend against grazing in the establishment year. This season is a time for growing roots and becoming a perennial plant. Any grazing the first year causes the grass to expend resources to regrow leaves that it would otherwise use to grow a deep, extensive root system that will serve it in subsequent years.
Wildflowers have various levels of seed dormancy depending on the species. Most will require a period of cold, wet conditions to break dormancy. Winter sowing wildflowers exposes the seed to these conditions and they will germinate in the spring. We recommend planting wildflowers any time between December and February. There should be adequate cold in most of the midwest to break dormancy during this period.
Most native warm season grass can be planted any time between January and early June. Dormant season plantings occur between January and March. Any native grass can be planted during this time. Eastern gamagrass should be planted during the dormant season because it needs a period of cold to break seed dormancy.
All other native warm season grasses can also be planted in April and May. In some years an early June planting can be successful, but it is best to plant earlier if possible.
Most plantings will not need watered after planting because native plants are adapted to our conditions and are very drought tolerant. However, if very dry conditions persist it is beneficial to water your new planting as needed if water access is available.
Native plants are often available in either ecotypes or varieties.
An ecotype is a plant that is locally adapted to a specific region or habitat. Ecotypes are not selected for any agricultural traits and are as true to wild plants as possible. Ecotypes are adapted to local weather, soils, pests, and stresses. Ecotypes are a great choice for habitat and pollinator plantings and ideal for pasture plantings as well.
A variety is a plant that has been selected and bred for specific traits. Many native warm season grass varieties are available and may have been selected for better forage production, seed production, or ease of establishment. Varieties are a good choice for pasture and hay plantings.
PLS stands for Pure Live Seed. We only sell seed as PLS. A PLS pound of seed is equal to one pound of 100% viable seed. Viability is based on up-to-date seed purity and germination tests and you will only pay for the seed that will germinate.
For example, if you order one pound of PLS seed and the purity is 95% and germination is 90% you will receive 1.17 pounds of bulk seed.
Germination is variable based on several factors including species, planting date, soil moisture, dormancy, and temperature.
Wildflowers will generally begin to germinate after soil temperatures reach and stabilize at 55 degrees or higher if seed dormancy has been broken by natural or artificial cold stratification. Germination may continue throughout the first growing season.
Most native warm season grasses will begin to germinate after 10-60 days if soil moisture and temperature are adequate.
It may take several months before seedlings become noticeable, so be patient.
We do not recommend fertilizing before planting unless a severe soil fertility issue is found with a soil test.
Fertilizer will benefit weeds more than native plant seedlings and allow them to compete with your desired plants.
Pastures will call for lower fertilizer inputs than areas that are baled for hay. Fertilization needs for native grasses are generally lower than introduced ones. You should fertilize according to soil test recommendations for your specific needs.
Wildflower plantings generally do not need additional fertilizer. If you add fertilizer to established wildflower plantings you may see a shift in dominant species as the added fertility allows some plants to compete more aggressively than they had.
In most situations tillage should be avoided because it can lead to erosion and bring weed seeds to the surface. Utilizing a no-till drill is a good option for most large scale plantings. On level sites or where other weed control methods are not available, tillage can be a good option when broadcasting seed.
Seed of native plants should be planted shallow. In nature they would fall to the ground and germinate on or just below the soil surface.
You should plant shallow enough to see 20% or more of the seed on the soil surface. It is better to plant too shallow than too deep. Deep planting will cause seeds to expend all of their stored energy to try to emerge.
There are a few exceptions to this rule of thumb so please contact us with any questions.
Your new seedlings should be planted into the best seed bed possible. This usually means killing all existing vegetation before planting. Any existing plant may be a weed to your new seedlings as they begin to grow.
Vegetation control can be accomplished by herbicides, tillage, or smaller plantings can be solarized. Mow or burn the dead plant material prior to planting if possible.
If you are broadcasting seed it is good to roll the area after planting to ensure good seed to soil contact. For large seedings, using a no-till drill helps to place seed in direct contact with soil.
Seed can be sown in many ways depending on site conditions, seed to be sown, and planting tools available. For small plantings it is often best to broadcast seed either by hand or seed spreaders. Field scale plantings can either be broadcast or drilled. Where possible, drilling seed usually gives better results. However, on freshly cleared areas, tilled areas, or crop fields broadcasting seed is a good option.
